Tuesday 19 December 2006Today we took off for Bikaner, a 7 hour road trip (death drive) and after booking into the Heritage Resort Hotel, again amazingly upmarket, were taken to see a camel farm.
Doorman at Heritage Resort, Bikaner
Ganga Raisala (13th Grenadiers), Bikaner
Wednesday 20 December 2006We were met this morning outside Bikaner Palace by our guide Shalenda and tour representative Vinod. Then followed a really interesting tour. The entrance had a series of hand marks made by the Mahajanis (first wives of the Maharaja) by dipping their hands in henna before being burned alive on the funeral pires of their dead husbands. Currently there is no Maharaja of Bikaner, the line having run out (no male heirs), so the whole palace with antique furniture etc is open to the public. Apparently one of the daughters/granddaughters may produce a son one day soon and if so he will inherit and live in the palace and will carry on the line. We then had a 6 hour drive to Jaisalmer and settled into the Heritage Inn once again very pleasant.
Bikaner Fort and Palace
Huge Bail of Fodder on Truck (hidden)
Thursday 21 December 2006We were met by our guide Kamal at 9.00am at the hotel and taken to the Gadi Sagar Lake surrounded by the Tilon-ki-phol and pagodas and rest places for caravaneers. This place played a big part in watering the camel trains of the past. Jaisalmer was, up until the late 19th century, a wealthy town slap bang on the trade route to China. Only the opening of the port of Bombay caused its demise. We then entered the living Jaisalmer Fort, living because 2500 people live and work within the fort walls. Jain temples, bastions, great views and havalis made for a good tour which included chai at Kamal's pad. Patsy bought all the spices for Chai tea and learned how to make it, so I guess anyone who visits when we get back will be treated (?) to a taste! We finished the day with a camel ride and a relaxing evening at the hotel.
Musician on the edge of the Gadi Sagar
The outer city from Jaisalmer Fort
Inside the Fort Walls
Salim Singh-Ki-Haveli
The Longest Moustache in Jaisalmer! 
Friday 22 December 2006We had a 4 hour drive to Jodhpur, booked into the Ajit Bahwan Hotel, the most upmarket yet, and then took a trip to the Jaswant Thada royal crematorium with our new guide Hari. Then it was up to the Meherangarh (the Majestic Fort) and I literally mean up - 125m. Originally built in the 1200's, it has been added to since and is a in good state of repair. The views of the Blue City below are stunning and the history of the place fascinating. Every fort has been subtly different on this trip so we are definitely not experiencing repetition. We fly to Delhi tomorrow hoping that there are not too many delays due to fog etc.
The Jaswant Thada, Jodhpur
Looking at the old city wall from the Majestic Fort (Meherangarh)
Views from Meherangarh
The Palace Apartments, Meherangarh
Jodhpur Clock Tower
Market
The Fort from Market
Slum shelters just across the road from our luxury hotel
